Counts-as Huron Blackheart: Sculpting Details

As you can see by the stream of updates on this model, once I get rolling I tend to just keep going until it’s done!

Since yesterday’s update on my WIP counts-as Huron, I started working on sculpting some details onto the legs of the model. My aim is to bulk the legs out a bit but also lend a little detail work to the model. As I’ve mentioned previously with my CSM, I don’t see their Lords and such overly embellished and ornate but at the same time they should stand out a bit.

First up, some shots.

A quick related aside. I love sculpting but it’s equal parts love and aggravation. I’m always learning with sculpting and always trying to push myself and that can get frustrating. As an example, that left leg (camera right), started off the same as that right leg (camera left), meaning just a band of green stuff. Once that dried I worked on sculpting in the arrows. The first arrow I knocked out in no time and I thought, Hey, this is easy! Oh hell no. The second arrow took me 30 minutes to get right. That’s 30 minutes for that teeny tiny arrow. I scraped it off and redid it at least four times. That’s the aggravating part. The fun and rewarding part was the last arrow on there only took me a handful of minutes. It’s frustrating in the moment when things just aren’t going right but it’s an awesome feeling when it finally does and you’ve learned from the process.

Things aren’t perfect with that leg trim and arrows but something I learned a long time ago with sculpting is sometimes you just have to let a few things slide initially for the sake of progress. Fiddling around with something that’s 95% accurate/complete can result in botching the entire thing; I’ve done it. I let small things go knowing I’ll come back and clean it up when it’s easier. Sculpting putty can be a very unforgiving medium if you slip.

On the right leg I’m not sure what I want to do with that trim. I’m a fan of asymmetrical models and I don’t want to match the arrows from the other leg. Total open to suggestions here.

Once that leg trim is done I’ll work on adding a tabard to the model. I have a technique I’m curious to try out for it.

Do you do much sculpting? It seems very few do much of it at all.

  • TheRhino

    Looks good. Maybe a row of studs or small spikes on the other side? A power cable? A skull?
    I definitely hear you on the “it’s good enough, come back to it later” thought. It’s very easy to spend a lot of time attempting to get something perfect, only to get frustrated and never complete it at all.

    • Power cable is an idea. Thought about a skull but I have so many on this model as it is (three on his backpack alone).

      Exactly. I’ve had stuff so close to being perfect and wanted to just make a minor fix to make it 100% perfect and just screwed it all up and walked away from it.

  • I like it! A little trim can go a long way on marine armor. I did something similar on the legs of my Wolf Lord – http://creativetwilight.com/kamuis-showcase-arngrim-the-swift/.

    I like TheRhino’s suggestion of a power cable for the other leg. You could add a recessed cable down the outside of this thigh and add a thin line of trim down either side of the cable. Or you could do a single longer arrow so that it matches the left leg without being symmetrical.

    • Yeah, it’s the nice part with power armor. It doesn’t take a lot to alter the overall appearance.

      I am thinking about the cable idea and I also thought about a larger arrow as well. I’m leaning more on the cable idea, just something entirely different from the Chaos arrow look to break it up some.

  • How long does it take the green stuff to dry after you mix it? I just got a a bunch of it, and I’m going to start trying to figure it out as well. So any tips are crazy appreciated it..otherwise I’ll spend 300 minutes to make a rivet. :)

    I like to think that all work spent on a model is time well spent. Even if you go through mistakes, even if it takes forever…you are still learning, and you are still creating. The end product will be that much better in your eyes having had to fight for the end product.

    • Tricky question. I normally with with it for about 30 minutes. Near that 30 minute mark it will have hardened some but still be useable. If you go much longer than that it gets to be very hard to work with. I generally let things cure for 24 hours ideally but normally by 6-8 hours (maybe even less), it’s cured enough that you won’t screw it up touching the model.

      I agree. Everything is a learning experience but while you’re in that moment it can really piss you off when you screw something up for the third or fourth time ;)

      • TheRhino

        it also depends on the ratio of blue to yellow you use when mixing. You can make it softer and slower to cure by using more yellow, or harder and faster to cure by using more blue.

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