Tips for Resin Models

Tips for Working with Forge World Resin Models

There are gifted modelers who work with different materials such as plastic, resin, and green stuff. Thor is one of those. Then, there are the rest of us.

One of the things I like about 40k is the background, including the Horus Heresy. That means either acquiring insane modeling skills, or buying resin crack from the UK. Therefore, I have learned the hard way to work with a resin model.

Forge World Model Tips

When you get your Forge World model there are a number of things to keep in mind:

1. I’ve noticed Forge World uses two or three different types of resin. So, if you get multiple models, and some are different colors, it is not a problem. They just tinker with the resin sometimes. I have resin parts I directly purchased from Forge World with two significantly different colors.

2. Flash can be an issue, particularly on the popular models. Quality control is variable; I have heard horror stories about the Storm Eagle. Personally, the Mark II crusade armor I started with did require patching; not as bad as failcast, but not great either.

Customer support for Forge World is good, if you can get a real person. They don’t answer their email… so I hope you like calling internationally.

3. Resin is not good to breath. So, when you are deflashing your models, drilling for pins/magnets, don’t inhale. Sweep off your desk after working on the models and vacuum. It might be a good idea to count your model’s parts before vacuuming… or invest in a Dyson type vacuum that doesn’t have a bag. Not that I have ever popped open the container looking for a head. Or shoulder pad. Or….

4. Resin has mold releasing agents. This means that if you don’t wash your new Forge World parts in soapy water (not hot!), your paint will not stick. Trust me, you don’t want to spend hours painting your new resin model and discover you missed a spot scrubbing. Not that it happened to me one week before the Standoff.

Old toothbrushes are cheap, and work well. I like to soak them in soapy water for 5 minutes, scrub and rinse. Let dry overnight and you are good to go.

You can also check out thebiggoldfish’s tutorial on cleaning resin.

5. Resin is not plastic. If you are short on time, and just buy your glue at the local game store, look at it before using it on resin. If it’s GW plastic glue then it will not work on resin models. This tripped me up, as last time I played 40k, GW glue was superglue. They switched it on me without me noticing. Head over to your local hardware store and pick up superglue. I like Locktite brand.

6. Finally, It is worth it saving up to make the 250 pound free fast shipping. It is a one month difference between when you get the models. Locally, recently we have tried to pool our money to make the minimum.

Forge World
The only thing more awesome then these models is their price tag…

That’s It!

Around Christmas time I will be receiving a set of Mark IV assault marines which I will promptly butcher, I mean convert, to be my Sergeants for my Dark Angels Legion. I will go slow with them and take a number of pictures.

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Thor

Good advice. Well done.

JustHippie
JustHippie

Warped and twisted pieces can be tricky. Some a quick soak in warm water and they straighten right out, others need to sit in warm water for quite a while and still seem to go back to the warped shape when cooled back down.
Customer service IS GW. When calling they answer “Games Workshop” so I said I was looking for Forge World and they said “Same place”. Sent me out new parts immediately and I got them a week or so later just like GW does.

Kamui

Nice tips! I’m looking forward to watching the models come together. Will you post WIP shots as you go?

TheRhino
TheRhino

Quality control is indeed up and down with Forgeworld parts. I have a Mortis pattern lascannon arm (left) that is actually concave on all the flat surfaces due to resin shrinkage, and the surfaces are oddly textured.
I also have a number of the old Mk4 Red Scorpions Vets heads that are absolutely flawless in every detail. They’re just 25% smaller than GW plastic Marine heads!

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