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Magnetized Maulerfiend and Forgefiend

Magnetizing a Maulerfiend and Forgefiend is Surprisingly Easy

Man, what a chore this was. I set out to fully magnetize this thing so it could be a Maulerfiend or a Forgefiend. I succeeded in doing so but it was a ton of work. First up, a few shots of the completed model. Quality is lacking as I just took some shots with my phone. Click to enlarge.

Oh, I get all my magnets from K&J Magnetics. I’ve been using them for years, their prices are great, they have fast shipping, and I’ve never once had an issue.

Maulerfiend

Magnet Points

Now, I’ll show some of the key points of magnetizing this sucker. Here’s all the parts I’m using for the Maulerfiend. I have the lasher tendrils as well but I have not magnetized them just yet.

Torso

So the torso was the easiest part. The entire model is setup with a ball joint socket system and I put 1/4″ x 1/32″ magnets inside each socket joint*, as seen above. I didn’t drill, just set them inside and made sure they were level.

Update: I’ve since magnetized another model and I went with the 1/4″ x 1/16″ magnets for the socket joints. It makes a HUGE difference in the limb stability.

The rest of it was a matter of cutting off the ball joints on each part so it was flush and then adding a 1/4″ x 1/32″ magnet where the ball joint was.

 

Feet

The feet were a bit different. The ball joints were smaller and so I had to drill into the joints and set in magnets. For this I used 1/8″ x 1/16″ magnets.

The feet had to be done, as much as I didn’t want to. When you use the Forgefiend instead of the Maulerfiend you have to put the clawed feet on the front where on the Maulerfiend those clawed feet are on the back. The hoofs on the Forgefiend then go on the back legs.

Update: You can glue the feet on and not have any issues with the foot placement if you leave the legs where they are. Meaning, don’t move the back legs to the middle, or the other way around. It really makes life easier by gluing the feet on; trust me.

Now, I then used the larger magnets on the bottom of the clawed feet. These fit in the arch of the foot almost perfectly. I had to do a little cutting but not much. The foot rests level on the base, which was the goal.

 

Arms

Now, the front arm shoulders had to also be magnetized. Those shoulder plates needed to be able to be swapped onto the Forgefiend’s weapon arms. I drilled into the shoulder plate’s ball joint and set a magnet there and then one on the shoulder itself in the hole the ball joint sits.

Maulerfiend: Arm & Shoulder
You can see the points I set in the magnets.

The Base

Lastly, the base. Note the placement of the magnets. The back is for when it’s a Maulerfiend and the clawed feet are on the back legs. The mid ones are for the Forgefiend when those clawed feet get moved forward. The front single one is for the power fist when it’s a Maulerfiend.

Maulerfiend: Base
Lots of magnets.

Doing the base was pretty easy. Once I had the legs and power fist magnetized I just set the model on the base where I wanted it. I gently lifted it and let my magnets (with glue on them of course), find their natural position and glue in place. This gives the Maulerfiend 3 points of contact and the Forgefiend 4.

Update: In the latest one I magnetized, I used the 1/4″ x 1/8″ magnets for under the base. It helps a lot during games to keep it steady.

Wrap-up

There you have a fully magnetized Maulerfiend that can be a Forgefiend. I have not done the Forgefiend parts yet, as my intent is to mostly run it as a Maulerfiend, but doing those parts will be no different from the other parts that have been done thus far.

If you’re interested, you can check out the painted Maulerfiend/Forgefiend.

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