- Blood Bowl Ogre Painting Tutorial – Painting the Skin (Part 1)
- Blood Bowl Ogre Painting Tutorial – Armor, Leather, and Cloth (Part 2)
- Blood Bowl Ogre Painting Tutorial – The Final Details (Part 3)
Alright, folks, we’re on to the last part in this painting tutorial series for the Blood Bowl Ogre. Sit back and grab a relaxing beverage because this one might get a bit lengthy. It’s a bit long, but not long enough to justify breaking it into another two parts.
Painting the Red Stripe
I like to add a red stripe to one shoulder pad. It’s a nice complementary color to the blue, and gives me a place to put the player’s number.
For the stripe there’s 3 colors I used: Khorne Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Hot Orange.
Step #1 – Base Coat
The first part was using the Khorne Red to create the stripe base.
Step #2 – Highlighting
From there I blended up with Evil Sunz Scarlet, and a little Hot Orange at the highest point.
For the numbers on the Ogre I started a few different ways depending on where the number was going.
On the shoulder, where there’s a lot of light, I used a very thin white and painted on his number. This took a few layers.
For the stomach plate, which has less light, I painted on the number with Administratum Grey. I then blended with some Cold Grey to darken the lower areas of the number where less light will hit.
On the back plate, which has the least amount of light, I started off with Cold Grey. I blend up a little, very little, with Administratum Grey just so it’s not too dark and unreadable.
Basing (Part 1)
For this team I have used Stirland Battlemire for the basing. I have always put it on the base and then primed everything. However, I was so excited to start painting this Ogre that I jumped right into painting, and I totally forgot to add on the basing texture. So, a bit late in the process, but on to the basing!
This is really simple. I just took a brush, and not a good one, and brushed around the Stirland Battlemire on the base. This particular texture paint by Games Workshop is intended to build up in certain areas. The idea being that the grass had gotten churned up during the game.
I will come back to the basing shortly. You’ll understand why in a bit.
Armor Chips & Scratches
Step #1 – Adding Depth
The armor on the Ogre has some scratches and chips. To pick these out I simply took a thinned down black paint, and painted into the scratches and chips to give them depth.
Step #2 – Big Chips
I used Gunmetal Metal to fill in any large chips. I left a line of black at the top as a shadow. See his stomach plate and the tops of the shoulder plates.
Step #3 – Weathering the Paint
I like weathering the stripe and numbers too. For this I took the armor base coat (Thunderhawk Blue), and randomly dabbed on the red stripe with it to make it appear worn off in spots. I did the same with the red over the white lettering.
Step #4 – Worn Metal
Using the same Gunmetal metal, I did some random dry brushed areas with it to create areas where the paint has rubbed off. Apparently I only took one shot of this step, but you’ll notice it in the other shots going forward.
Step #5 – Highlighting
The next part was to highlight the damaged areas. Now, there’s a few ways to do this. The common technique you see quite a lot is to take a brighter version of the armor color and highlight underneath the chip or scratch. It looks good, and it stands out, but it’s not realistic enough for me. Now, I’m all about doing things that aren’t realistic if it looks cool. However, if I can do both (realistic and cool), then it’s what I’ll do.
See, to me it’s unrealistic to use the armor color as a highlight on a scratch. Something tore into the armor – broke it, and that type of damage is going to pull up the paint around the edges and show metal. Unless what caused the scratch was super sharp, it’s going to be damaged around the area.
Something I started doing on this team was to use a metal color for the underside highlight. I think it looks good and it’s more realistic. I don’t paint metal on the top part of the scratch, which would be more realistic, just the underside to highlight. Between the black and the metal highlight, I think it looks pretty good.
Anyway, for the highlight I use Chainmail Silver. It’s a mid-toned silver. At this stage I also use this silver to wear the edges of the armor. For this I focus on spots that would get a lot of wear, like the shoulder pad edges, knee armor, etc.
Basing (Part 2)
The textured base was heavily washed with Nuln Oil to add depth to all the texturing. The next part is covered below.
Dirt & Grass
The paints for this part are:
Step #1 – Dirt/Dust
Using the Beasty Brown, I dry brushed various areas on the model to create a dusty look. Considering the model is fighting, getting thrown on the ground, etc., pretty much anywhere on the model is fair game for the dust/dirt. I do tend to stick to the feet, legs, arms, and shoulders primarily though, and never on the skin. Sure, realistically his skin would get dirt on it too, but dry brushing this brown onto the Ogres skin would only serve to mute the skin tones.
The base is also dry brushed with the Beasty Brown. Basically, I do this very sloppy and let it hit the model to get the dirt on the feet and legs.
Step #2 – Grass Stains
The Sick Green, and Athonian Camoshade are used to create grass stains. Same concept as the dirt, but this is only applied to the cloth areas; which on the Ogre is his shorts and loincloth. Seeing as black wouldn’t really show grass stains, it’s just the shorts I worked on.
I dry brushed on the Sick Green randomly, and used the Camoshade in some spots to darken the green. Grass stains tend to have a variation in the green it leaves behind.
During this whole process of painting the Ogre I forgot about the skull hanging off the chain. For this I use Screaming Skull, White Scar, and Seraphim Sepia.
The skull is base coated with Screaming Skull. I then wash it liberally with the Sepia. Once dried, I blend Screaming Skull over it on the higher areas – the top of the skull. Lastly, I blend a little White Scar over that.
Painting the Golds
Step #1 – Base Prep
Because I’m working with a black primer, painting gold straight on never works very well. The first thing I do is use Beasty Brown to cover all the areas that will be gold. The exception is the rivets, which are also painted gold. The rivets are blue from the armor, and the gold goes on that easily enough.
Step #2 – Base Coating
The next step is the gold. For this I used Polished Gold and Glorious Gold.
For the gold areas that are in darker spots, a lot less light, I used the Glorious Gold. Everything else was painted with Polished Gold.
Step #3 – Shading
Now for shading. This is something I picked up from Sable Warlock on the gold tutorial he did. The first step is to use the Agrax Earthshade to wash the golds. The following step is to use the Druchii Violet in the darker areas of the gold. The purple wash compliments the gold, and makes a great shade when used selectively.
Step #4 – Highlighting
Once the washing was done, I came back in with the Polished Gold and layered it on the spots that would get some direct light.
The final thing I did was use Runefang Steel for extreme highlights on the gold. This was very selectively done.
The Final Steps
The final steps, which you will see in the showcase in a few days, was finishing the base – simple stuff. I painted the rim of the base black, and used the Sick Green to create a ring around it to designate him as a blocker. The very last step was gluing down static grass over the textured base.
The static grass I used was the Games Workshop Glade Grass. It was something I picked up years ago for a project I never did.
I like it because it has a variation of colors in it – plus I had it on hand, so why not use it?
I really hope I’ve done well with this painting tutorial. This was my first painting tutorial and I learned a lot doing it. Doing more of these is something I can see doing if the interest is there.
So, thanks for reading, and I hope you learned something in the process!