Shadespire is a great game. It’s also really easy to paint up a warband for it since some of them are only 3 models, like these Stormcast Eternals – Steelheart’s Champions. The fun part with that is it’s a great time to experiment with painting techniques, to try something different, like this rust effect technique I decided to use on the miniatures.
I’m not a bit fan of the good guys in games. I prefer those who walk a grey to black line, not a white one, so when it came time to paint Steelheart’s Champions, I decided I wanted to change it up. Instead of the typical gold armor with Stormcasts, I opted for something gritty, something that didn’t scream we are humankind’s saviors.
I saw a great tutorial on painting corroded armor and I knew I had to use that for my Shadespire warband. I didn’t have all the paints that were used in that tutorial, so I knew I had to do some minor adaptation, plus put my spin on it.
So, I present to you my tutorial on painting a realistic rust effect metal/armor.
Rust Effect Tutorial
When I mention paints by name I will either include (GW) for Games Workshop/Citadel, or (V) for Vallejo. Those are the two paint lines I used in this tutorial.
Also, most of the brush work in the tutorial is done with a Citadel Medium Layer Brush. I find it’s a good size to get reasonable coverage and be able to handle the light blending I’m doing.
Click any image to enlarge it.
Step #1 – Basecoat
The armor is basecoated with Leadbelcher (GW).
The shield and shoulders have some really simple blending on it starting with a basecoat of Regal Blue (GW), blending up to Enchanted Blue (GW), with a little Electric Blue (V) at the highest point. The shading was done by mixing in some Abaddon Black (GW) with Regal Blue.
You could totally skip painting any part of the armor in a color and just leave it all metal. I did it to see how well I could weather it to match the rest of the armor. Plus, I thought it would give a little visual interest in places to break up the rusted look.
Step #2 – Wash
The easy step, just wash everything with Agrax Earthshade (GW). It’s a pretty heavy wash as well. I’m aiming for dirty and gritty, so go as heavy as you like here. The brown over the blue does well to dull it down and give it a dirty feel.
Step #3 – Corrosion
Games Workshop has a great technical paint called Typhus Corrosion. It has little granules in it, so when it dries it leaves a gritty texture. It makes it perfect for weathering.
I take Typhus Corrosion and apply it in the recessed areas of the armor, anywhere that I feel would retain moisture and in turn corrode the armor. I did this in a few layers to build it up in spots.
At the same time, I also took Rhinox Hide (GW) and mixed it with Abaddon Black (GW). I then stippled that onto the shield to create chips in the paint. You could also use a sponge if you don’t want to stipple.
I apologize about the lack of pictures on this step. I took less than I intended, but you should be able to see the Typhus Corrosion around the shield lip and parts of her armor in these shots.
Step #4 – First Shade
Now, it’s time to start getting the rust effect look on there.
For this step I use Terracotta (V), which is a ruddy, reddish-brown, and thin it out with Lahmian Medium (GW) – about 50/50. The medium creates a glaze with the Terracotta so I can apply it in even thin coats easily.
The recesses are where I focus the most as that’s where armor is more likely to rust.
I do this in a few layers to blend it. I start further out and pull the paint into the recesses. The next layer starts closer and pulls back, then again, etc. This builds it up to a nice reddish-brown closest to the recesses.
On the shield and shoulders I apply this in the chips I created earlier. I apply the paint in the middle of the chips to leave a shadow around it.
Step #5 – Rusty
Another great technical paint Games Workshop makes is Ryza Rust. It’s a textured rust paint that’s intended to be drybrushed onto the model.
However, instead of drybrushing, I put some on my palette and mix in some water to thin it out – about 50/50. I then apply a very thin coat over most of the armor to tint it orange.
After that dries, I come back in with the Ryza Rust and do some stippling with it to intensify the orange. I focus more on areas away from recesses for this step.
I did this with stippling to create a textured look and not something smooth and consistent. Rust is more convincing when it appears textured in my opinion.
If you wanted something quicker then you could simply drybrush the Ryza Rust on for this step. A few layers of this drybrushed would look good as well.
On the shield and shoulders I add some of the Ryza Rust into the middle of the paint chip to keep that depth I created. I also dragged a few lines down from the chips to add some rust streaks.
Step #6 – Highlights
The final step!
I take Leadbelcher (GW) and do some edge highlighting. The other thing I do is some stippling with it in areas that would see more light to brighten it up in spots.
Doing this with stippling helps keep the textured look I’ve been working on. You could, however, use drybrushing instead if you’re more comfortable. Drybrushing could hit all your edges for you and some flat surfaces. It would give a more dusted look instead of the deeper textured look of stippling.
Here we arrive at the final result of all the work.
Here’s a few close-ups to better show you that textured look I’m talking about, and the rust in general.
This was my first time doing a rust effect technique like this, so it may not be a perfect recipe, but I think the results are pretty convincing. Normally I do a technique a few times before I do a tutorial on it, but I thought it would be fun to document my process and write it up.